The short answer
Split ends happen when the protective outer layer of a hair wears away at the tip and the inside frays apart. Heat, colouring and bleaching are common causes, but brushing, rough towelling, tight hair ties, sun and sea water all play a part. Split ends can’t be repaired. The only way to get rid of them is to cut them off, and the way to stop them coming back is to reduce the wear on your hair.
What causes split ends?
Every hair is wrapped in overlapping scales called the cuticle. As the hair ages, the cuticle chips away, and the oldest part, the ends, wears out first. The medical name is trichoptilosis. Anything that speeds up that wear causes split ends:
| Cause | Why it splits the hair |
|---|---|
| Heat styling | Straighteners, tongs and very hot hair dryers dry out the hair and crack the cuticle. |
| Colouring, bleaching and perms | Chemicals open the cuticle and weaken the inside of the hair. |
| Brushing and towelling | Friction wears the cuticle away, especially on wet or tangled hair. |
| Tight hair ties and clips | They rub and break hair in the same place, sometimes close to the scalp. |
| Sun, sea and swimming pools | UV light, salt and chlorine slowly weather the hair. |
| Long hair | The ends of long hair can be several years old, and have had years of washing and styling. |
Why do I get split ends without using heat?
Giving up heat helps, but it isn’t the only cause. Brushing, rough towel drying, tight bands and weathering all wear hair down. Hard water can leave a mineral film that makes hair rougher and harder to comb. Hair can also grow weaker from the inside if you’re low in iron or not eating enough protein, so it splits more easily however gently you treat it.
Can you repair split ends?
No. Once a hair has split, it can’t be stuck back together. Serums and conditioners can smooth the ends and hold them together until your next wash, but they don’t mend them. Left alone, a split can travel further up the hair, so a regular trim is the only fix.
How to prevent split ends
- Have a trim every 8 to 12 weeks, taking off just the damaged ends.
- Condition after every wash, concentrating on the lengths and ends.
- Detangle gently with a wide-toothed comb, starting at the ends.
- Pat or squeeze hair dry rather than rubbing it.
- Use soft, snag-free hair ties, and change where you tie your hair.
- Turn down the heat, and leave time between colour or bleach treatments.
If your hair is snapping off short, all over or close to the scalp, it’s more than split ends: it’s hair breakage, and it has a cause.
If something isn’t right with your hair or scalp, a consultation is where I take your history, examine your hair and scalp closely and give you a written plan.
Questions
How do you get rid of split ends?
By cutting them off. A trim of a centimetre or two above the splits removes them. Products can only hide them for a while.
Do split ends stop hair growing?
No. Hair still grows from the root, but split ends break off, so your hair can seem stuck at the same length.
How often should I cut my hair to stop split ends?
Every 8 to 12 weeks suits most people. If you use heat or colour, you may need trims more often.
Can split ends be a sign of a health problem?
Usually not, but hair that breaks easily despite gentle care can be linked to low iron, a poor diet or a thyroid problem.